Mount Chokai and How to Hike it
Mount Chokai is an active volcano standing at about 2,236m (7,335ft) tall. It is recognized as one of Japan’s top 100 mountains and is the tallest mountain in the Tohoku region. There are 9 different trails for hiking Chokai, and each one offers different views, starting points on the mountain, and levels of difficulty. For serious hikers who start at the very bottom of the mountain and intend to go all the way to the very top, it takes about 8-12 hours (going up and back down). There are hot spring inns sprinkled around the mountain that hikers can book a stay at if they don’t want to do the whole hike in one day.
Getting to the very top of Chokai is the most difficult part of the hike and is not recommended for novice hikers. The last 45 minutes or so of the hike consists of rock climbing up jagged rocks and possibly hiking through mud or melting snow. Not only is it challenging, it’s also dangerous if you aren’t confident in your hiking skills. Of course, it’s doable for novice hikers but it may be a much bigger challenge and it may take longer to get to the top. Fortunately, people can still enjoy climbing Chokai without going all the way to the peak. There’s some points on the mountain that serve as a good turn around point for most people. Both Zach and I chose to stop before the peak since we’re inexperienced climbers. We finished the hike at a beautiful lake view which is actually a popular turn around point.
Beginning of the Hike
We did a lot of research before hiking this mountain, and based on what we found we decided to go with the easiest and one of the most popular trails: Kisakata Trail. This trail starts at Hokodate Hut, which is already 1,100m (3,609ft) up the mountain. We were a little nervous when we pulled up here and parked, because the fog and clouds were so thick we could barely see our hand in front of us. As inexperienced hikers, we weren’t sure what we’d do if it started to storm. For the time being, we put those worries in the back of our minds and started the hike. There are restrooms, food, and water at the hut, so we were able to prepare before climbing.
The beginning of Kisakata trail is paved which makes for an easy start, and right away we saw some pretty awesome views. I was already so excited and couldn’t believe how gorgeous the scenery was only 10 minutes into the hike. This gave me adrenaline, and I was excited to see what lied ahead.
Walking Through Clouds
Before going on this hike, I did check the weather every day to make sure it would be sunny when we went. However, being from Florida, I clearly don’t understand mountains. The weather report told me it would be a beautiful, clear, sunny day for our hike. However, the closer we got to the starting point the thicker the clouds became. I’ve learned that mountain weather is unpredictable and it rains frequently due to high altitudes. Despite this, the clouds were actually really nice. I also think it was a better situation for a first big hike, as opposed to a clear day where the sun would be beating down on us.
The clouds turned out to be an awesome experience and the best part for me, because Zach and I were literally walking through them during the entirety of the hike. I could also see them move right in front of us. Every now and again the clouds would part a little to reveal a dramatic mountain scene. We didn’t even realize how high up we were until the curtain of clouds lifted for a brief moment.
Different Types of Terrain
I’ve been on a few mountains before, but this is the first time I’ve seen multiple terrains for one hike. I had to adjust the way I approached each path which was new for me. There were incredibly steep stone stairs, dirt and pebble paths, and flat paths. The dirt path was the most difficult for me, because there were so many small rocks and pebbles that I slipped on. Thankfully, I didn’t fall, but I had to be extra conscious of where I put my weight. The stairs were killer and my least favorite part. Thanks to them, I could barely move my legs the next day. The flat paths were obviously the easiest, but I was still wary due to the rocks being uneven. Although flat, it was still a tripping hazard.
For me, the dirt and pebble paths proved to be a problem on the way back down. My movements were a bit shaky due to exhaustion and I miscalculated where to step a few times. It probably doesn’t help that I have a damaged nerve in my ear which causes balance issues. Hiking is always scary because of this, but I don’t let it stop me. I slipped on some loose rocks multiple times on the way down, but I was able to catch myself. I concentrated on taking it slow and I let others pass me if they were moving faster. This hike was seriously a challenge for me at times, but I was able to get through it!
Rock Markings
After about an hour and a half or so of climbing, we were really, really high up. The air was thinner, so it was a little harder to breathe. I needed to take more breaks the closer we got to the top. This part of the hike usually gets extremely dense fog, and it’s easy to get lost or stray from the main path. Due to this, there are markings on the rocks and even the ground to help guide hikers in dense fog. I recalled that there was a map at the start of the trail detailing what to expect ahead. There was a big warning for this section, urging hikers to be wary of the fog. Thankfully, we didn’t have to deal with any fog and the path was straightforward.
I thought the markings were really cool and I wondered what had happened that prompted someone to put them there in the first place, if anything happened at all. Did too many hikers get lost or go missing? Hiking can be daunting sometimes, which is why I don’t climb mountains like this alone. I have much appreciation and respect for experienced climbers who do this all the time!
Fresh Water
There are points on Mount Chokai that have fresh water streams. Hikers can fill up their bottle with this water, but it’s recommended to purify it first due to the high amount of traffic on the mountain. The fresh water is also available in bottles at a shrine at the end of the hike, but it’s quite expensive. I brought a 1 liter water bottle with me, but I finished it before we got to the end. I had never been so thirsty before and we still had to make our way down the mountain. As much as I detested the idea of spending almost $5 on a bottle of water, I had no choice. Maybe I was trying to convince myself, but it did taste like very crisp and clean mountain water. It was pretty neat, and I loved the idea of drinking water straight from the source. So, I guess it was worth the money.
The Finish Line
After about two and a half to three hours of hiking, Zach and I finally made it to Chokai Lake! This lake is about 1,692m (5,550ft) up the mountain. We entered through a torii and passed a shrine to see the view. The shrine offers drinks and cup ramen for a little boost of energy. There were also pictures and descriptions of all the flowers and plants we saw while hiking. At the lake, there are a bunch of rocks so hikers can sit and enjoy the view. This is where most people end their hike and start their descent. However, to the left of the lake, about 45 minutes to an hour, is the true finish line and the most difficult part of the hike. As I mentioned before, we chose not to do this part because we just don’t have enough experience climbing mountains. We were also exceptionally sore just from climbing up, and we still had to go back down. Maybe once we get more experience, we’ll return to Chokai one day and climb the peak. But for now, we’re content with the small hike we were able to do on the mountain we gaze at every day.
We took our sweet time relaxing, taking photos of the lake, and watching hikers disappear into the clouds on their way to the peak. We weren’t looking forward to the descent, but it would definitely be easier than going up.
Gift Shop
After about one and a half hours, we finally made it back to Hokodate Hut. We checked out the gift shop before leaving and stocked up on more water. This gift shop was really cute and had a lot of specialty merchandise such as t-shirts, postcards, and Akita themed goods. There was also a cafeteria that sold ice cream and Japanese snacks. I fell in love with the Akita themed cookies that had Akita Inu and Namahage art. There were also Mount Chokai cookies that had Chokai’s height printed on them. These cookies make great gifts for family and friends!
Another big thing they had there was gourmet popcorn with crazy flavors such as raspberry, orange honey, lemon, and strawberry. Zach and I grabbed some and ate celebratory popcorn in the car before leaving. This was the perfect way to end a long day of hiking!