Kawarage Jigoku
Just 20 minutes away from where I live is a little city called Yuzawa. While I was out and about around here, I noticed a worn down sign board advertising a place called “Kawarage Jigoku.” There was a picture of a beautiful waterfall, so I went online to find out more about it. As soon as I saw vibrant fall colors I knew I had to see this place for myself.
Kawarage Jigoku is one of the three major sacred places in Japan. The landscape is what stood out to me the most because some parts of it are bleached completely white. This is due to poisonous sulfur gas and toxic soil, making this place mostly devoid of life. Over the years, Kawarage Jigoku earned a very fitting nickname: Hell’s Valley. I noticed that this is the same nickname Oyasukyo Gorge has!
The main attraction of Hell’s Valley is hiking the trail that runs through the area. Billowing gases and yellow sulfur crystals are visible while passing through. It’s easy to see why this place is popular in the fall season. The contrast between the bleached landscape and the vivid colors of the trees is breathtaking. This was probably one of the most unique landscapes I’ve seen, and I thought that this is the kind of thing I only see in video games or movies. Japan is always surprising me with its incredible natural beauty.
Smelly Sulfur
I was captivated by the views, staring at all the colors around me, but I couldn’t seem to get away from the smell of sulfur. For those who’ve never smelled sulfur before, it smells like rotten eggs. Honestly, I could smell it in the car while driving towards the parking lot. Since I had done research beforehand I knew to expect this smell, but I had no idea it would be this bad.
It’s the worst at the beginning of the trail which is where most of the gases and sulfur crystals can be seen. Through my research, I learned from other hikers that the smell can get so bad that it causes nausea. Some even said they had to leave before finishing the hike because they fell ill. I did notice a lot of warning signs dotting the trail, warning hikers to be wary of the poisonous gases. There was even a path that broke off from the main one that was taped off due to there being an abundance of gas. Hell’s Valley can be extremely dangerous, so it’s important to listen to the warnings.
The smell was vile and it made my eyes water, but thankfully I didn’t experience any nausea. My clothes and hair did absorb the smell though, so it was a stinky car ride home. The smell eventually lets up further along the trail. It’s just the beginning that’s the hard part!
Gases and yellow sulfur crystals next to the trail
The smell was especially bad here. The crystals are such a toxic yellow.
One of the many warning signs along the trail.
The English isn’t great but the meaning is clear.
Signs of Life
After proceeding beyond the bleached mountain, it was clear that the trail had been reclaimed by nature. There was a statue surrounded by gorgeous fall leaves and a small waterfall. The water around Hell’s Valley is boiling, so there are many signs warning visitors not to touch the water. This was a nice place for a break before starting the last half of the hike which was the best part in my opinion.
The trail eased off into a dense forest that was entirely draped in oranges, reds, and yellows. The path had turned into a carpet of leaves that crunched with each step. This was such a picture perfect fall scene and I was audibly expressing my amazement as I continued walking. This is how I had always pictured fall in my head when I lived in Florida and I just couldn’t believe something like this was real. It was such an incredible moment!
Statue with vibrant leaves behind it
The small, steamy waterfall
Forest with gorgeous fall colors
I spotted a tree with names and dates carved into it. I thought it was pretty interesting.
Kawarage Oyutaki
As I climbed down a decent amount of stairs, the waterfall that I originally saw on the sign board came into view. Kawarage Oyutaki is a hot spring waterfall which is rare in Japan. This area is actually a popular bathing spot and there are changing rooms nearby so visitors can get into a swim suit. Earlier I said that there were warning signs everywhere about boiling hot water, but this waterfall is special. A 100C (212F) spring gushes nearby and mixes with mountain streams which cools it down. Standing at 20m (66ft), the waterfall is about 40C (104F) and is perfect for bathing.
I didn’t go into the water mainly because I heard about it being acidic. If some accidentally gets into your mouth, it tastes a bit sour. It can also cause mild skin and eye irritations. I have sensitive skin so I figured it wouldn’t be the best idea to come in contact with this water. Of course, fully immersing yourself is optional. I saw a lot of people taking their shoes and socks off to soak their feet. I’m sure that felt great after the long hike to get here. I decided to hang out and take some photos while the steam warmed me up. Just like most places I visit in Japan, it was hard for me to leave.
This was a great end to the Hell’s Valley hike and I’m happy I saw that sign board. Rural Japan has so many hidden gems like this and it’s such a treat when I get to experience them.
