Onomichi

Onomichi is a small, quiet city located along the Seto Inland Sea. It’s a popular day trip from Hiroshima since it’s just a 50 minute bullet train ride from the mainland. Onomichi is known for its many shrines and temples, stunning views of the sea, and its narrow slopes dotted with attractions. The city is also the birthplace of multiple well known artists, directors, and authors, so it’s renowned for its history of art and literature. Onomichi has actually been the filming location for a few movies and TV shows!

The main attraction here is definitely “Shimanami Kaido,” which is a 60km (37mi) long toll road that connects the smaller islands of the Seto Inland Sea to mainland Japan. The most popular way to travel this route is by bicycle. I would’ve loved to try this but I definitely would need a couple days to finish the entire route. I was only visiting Onomichi for a day trip but I’d love to come back one day and take on the challenge!

There’s a lot of walking involved in this city, especially going up steep slopes and climbing stairs. However, I was really happy that I spent my last full day here. I ate amazing local food and strolled around looking at historical temples. It ended up being an enjoyable, relaxing day.

Temple Walk

I can say with confidence that I probably saw more temples than houses while I was here. I wasn’t surprised to find out that one of the other main attractions is a temple walk, which is a 2.5km (1.5mi) route that connects 25 different temples. There are other attractions along the way as well, so the entire walk can take anywhere between half a day to a full day.

I was interested in this, so I looked into it on the bullet train to Onomichi. I found out that doing the whole walk is mainly popular among those who are very fit and enjoy hiking. It’s more of a workout than a nice stroll. I had seen other travelers suggest only visiting the main temples on the walk, especially because most of the route has small, unmanned ones that aren’t all that exciting.

In all honesty, I had no desire to climb steep stairs all day, mainly because I was still recovering from the hike I did in Miyajima. I ended up only seeing the main temples and the short hike to them wasn’t so bad. The small alleyways and stairs built into the sides of mountains were fun to pass through, which is one of the many things that make Onomichi unique and memorable.

Senkoji Temple

This is the highest point in Onomichi and the views from here are phenomenal. Senkoji was my first stop on the temple walk and where I spent most of my time. It was gloomy when I first arrived, but the clouds eventually parted and it was pure magic seeing the sun shine down on this tiny city. It was hard to tear myself away from this area, so I just sat in the sun for a while taking it all in.

The temple itself was founded in the year 806, and it’s actually Onomichi’s most iconic temple. The red color stands out against the greenery of the mountain and the blue sea. I also saw various kinds of ema, which are wooden boards that can be found at most temples and shrines across Japan. Anyone can purchase an ema for ¥500-¥1,000, write their wish or prayer on it, and hang it up nearby in hopes that the the gods will see the message. I loved the ema designs at Senkoji, especially the Rilakkuma ones!

The best way to get to Senkoji Temple is by cable car because the view from above allows you to see the temple framed by the seascape. It’s also a great way to save a lot of time. The ropeway was out of service during my visit, but this gave me the chance to see some parts of the Path of Literature.

The Path of Literature is another popular route that’s full of stones engraved with pieces of work from famous poets and authors. Despite everything being in Japanese, it was enjoyable seeing some of the statues. Matsuo Basho seems to be a prominent figure here, which brought back memories from the time I learned about him at Yamadera.

Tenneiji

On my way down from Senkoji, I stumbled upon Tenneiji. The view from this temple is probably the most scenic in Onomichi. The rooftops and Shimanami Kaido in the distance with the 3 story pagoda in front is really an iconic view. I recognized it instantly because this was the view that kept popping up when I was looking up things to do in Onomichi.

Most people come to this temple to pray for good health, especially if they have any specific issues. The Buddha statue inside of the temple is said to cure any illness or pain you may have. It only works if you rub the spot on the statue where you’re having problems. I didn’t get to see the statue, but if I did I probably would’ve rubbed the legs and prayed for my soreness from hiking to be taken care of!

Jodo-ji

This was the last major temple I saw on the temple walk. This one was more out of the way compared to everything else, but the walk was worth it. I learned that Prince Shotoku, one of the most important historical figures in Japan, founded Jodo-ji in the year 616. I thought that the name “Prince Shotoku” sounded familiar, and I remembered the temple I visited in Osaka called Shitennoji. Prince Shotoku founded that temple as well, which was the first temple in Japan to be built by the government. I think it’s so interesting how the places I visit around Japan connect like puzzle pieces.

From 1336-1573, a military ruler named Ashikaga Takauji would visit Jodo-ji to pray for successful battles. There’s an important cultural festival that celebrates his victories to this day. The pagoda and the main building are designated national treasures, while the paintings, sculptures, and scriptures inside are listed as cultural properties. The temple actually has such significant historical value that the entire area is classified as a national treasure.

It was wonderful having the chance to see such an important place, especially at sunset. The scenery was gorgeous and the pagoda was unique compared to the ones I’ve seen around Japan. I also found another special ema design here, which was a bird wearing a messenger bag.

Neko no Hosomichi: Cat Alley

One feature that stood out to me during my time in Onomichi was the amount of cats, both real and decorative. Cat mascots stood outside of storefronts and were drawn on shop signs. Cat themed souvenirs were plentiful, and I encountered several real ones while walking around the city. I have a soft spot for cats, so when I discovered that there was an area dedicated to them I made it my mission to find the famed alley. It wasn’t hard to spot since there were so many cat decorations pointing the way. The narrow alleyway felt like a whimsical garden, and I could hear cats meowing in the distance as I made my way through.

Cat Alley used to be a rundown, abandoned area until a French artist named Shunji Sonoyama came to Onomichi and revived it in 1997. He found inspiration in this quaint city, and wanted to fulfill his dream of building a community based on art, love, and history. Abandoned houses were turned into cafes and museums, and the area became full of life. The locals take care of the stray cats here and I even saw a board full of their photos, each stating their name and breed.

Painted cats were on cafe walls and even the ground. I also saw stones that had adorable hand painted cats on them, which were hidden in trees and behind bushes. It’s said that if you stroke the top of these stones, they will bring you good luck. My favorite little detail was seeing paw prints in the concrete, indicating that these cats have been around for a long time and have always been accepted by the locals.

I saw a lot of stray cats not only in Cat Alley, but all over Onomichi. Most of them were cautious and didn’t approach me. I tried squatting down for some of them and holding my hand out, but they kept their distance. I didn’t bother them if they didn’t come to me first, so I only watched and admired them from a distance. Towards the end of my visit, I did meet one very friendly stray who ended up following me for a good while. He allowed me to give him lots of love before I had to go. I really wanted to take home all the sweet babies I saw.

Cat Alley wouldn’t be complete without a cat cafe! I thought this was convenient because if you don’t see any stray cats, you can still enjoy their company in a cafe. I spent an hour in a cat cafe that was located on the way down from the alley. I pet a few house cats and one of them even made biscuits in my lap.

The cafe also had handmade cat souvenirs such as greeting cards, keychains, and tableware. In fact, cat souvenirs were in just about every shop in the city. Onomichi Station had the best souvenirs in my opinion. I saw cat cookies and other themed food as well. Everything was so cute that I had a hard time not buying everything cat themed since I couldn’t take any real cats home.

Hondori Shopping Street

The Hondori Shopping street is about 1.6km (1mi) long and has about 400 different stores. Most places in Japan have lengthy shopping streets like this, but this one in Onomichi has a special charm. A lot of the places along Hondori shopping street are renovated houses from the late 1800s to the early 1900s, which have been turned into souvenir shops and guesthouses. The retro atmosphere is what attracts visitors to this shopping street.

I also saw multiple cafes, clothing stores, and even stalls selling fresh produce here. Zach and I had a great time popping into a few cafes, and we also found Onomichi specialties such as lemon treats and ramen. It was really nice being able to cafe hop for a bit and look through the unique items sold in some of the shops.

Specialties of Onomichi

There are actually quite a few specialties that Onomichi is known for, but the most popular one is lemons! Onomichi and the surrounding islands on the Seto Inland Sea are responsible for 60% of Japan’s lemon production, so there are countless lemon dishes, sweets, and souvenirs. I even saw places that were selling plastic bags full of fresh lemons. I talk more about the types of treats I ate on my Cafes & Cuisine post. I also introduce other specialties such as the famous bowl of Onomichi ramen and a wafer ice cream sandwich.

Onomichi really has something for everyone. It’s heaven for cat lovers, foodies, and art and history buffs. The scenery is magical and it’s easy to see why this city has been the filming location for so many shows and movies. Onomichi is truly one of Hiroshima’s hidden gems, and I believe it should be on everyone’s bucket list. It easily became one of my favorite places in Japan!