Serious Snow
Akita winters are not very friendly. They’re long, cold, and harsh. Although winter can be beautiful, the snow can be a big pain and sometimes a serious problem. In the year 2020, the snow was so bad that the Japanese military had to come and help Akita remove the mass amounts of snow. The amount of snow that accumulates on top of buildings is also dangerous. There have been reported deaths due to falling snow hitting people on the head and burying them. Every day, multiple times a day, the roads and sidewalks have to be cleared by huge snow plows. In the dead of winter, on average it will snow between 10 and 15 inches (25cm-38cm) overnight.
Along with the snow, it’s already dark out by the time 4:30PM rolls around. The sun rises later in the morning as well, so I see darkness for most of the duration of winter. This is especially true since I work during daylight hours.
Winter has been one of the bigger challenges I’ve had to face while living in Akita. It can definitely be mentally and physically draining, but I have things that help me get through this unforgiving season. Most of the time, the snow is too bad to go anywhere far. During bad snow storms (which happen frequently), I’ll stay inside and play video games, watch movies, and read books. I rely heavily on my hobbies in winter to keep me sane. I also feel really lucky that I don’t live alone. Zach and I commiserate with each other on how much we dislike winter. If we’re able to, we plan a nice getaway to a place where it doesn’t snow for our winter vacation.
My Days in Winter
I have to wake up quite early in winter to give myself enough time to clear my car of snow before leaving for work. Usually, this is what my car looks like in the morning but sometimes it’s worse. I have to dig out the sides of my car just so I can get in, and the snow is usually up to my knees, sometimes my thighs. I dig in front of my car as well because it’s usually too much to drive over. There’s a layer of ice on my windshield every morning, so after I unearth my car I have to turn the heat on high for a few minutes to melt the ice.
During the entirety of winter, traffic is always horrible so I leave for work earlier than usual. Driving slowly and carefully is the most important thing to do because it’s so easy to slide, especially since the road is always covered in a thick layer of ice. I turn into a grandma driver in winter because I drive and take turns very slowly, and I break early. A lot of drivers pass me but I’d rather be safe than sorry!
I keep a shovel and a brush in my car due to the amount of snow that piles up within hours. I clear my car in the parking lot after work every day and also my spot when I get home. I’m digging snow every day, about 3 times a day, from the end of November till about the end of March. I’ve experienced pretty bad winters before where it even snowed a little in April. I’ll admit, the perpetual digging keeps me fit but my whole body is always so sore during this season. I was born and raised in Florida and Floridians were not built for this!
This was after a really bad snow day. It snowed about 52 inches (132cm) within 24 hours.
This is my landlord clearing my street with a snow plow.
Roads and Hallways
All around the prefecture are what I like to call “snow hallways.” When the roads are cleared by big plows, the snow is pushed off to the side. Throughout the season it piles up and creates these massive walls of snow next to the sidewalks. Walking through them literally feels like I’m walking down a hallway and it’s quite an experience. They can be dangerous, however, because it’s hard to see around them before making a turn. People are also hidden behind them, so sometimes they’ll appear suddenly from behind a snow wall before crossing the street. There are so many things to pay attention to when driving in heavy snow and this is why I always drive cautiously.
Another crazy thing is how much snow piles up around my house. There have been times when the snow covered my windows or piled up at the front door. My kitchen window is usually the worst and sometimes it’s impossible to open.
One of the main roads in my city.
Me standing in a snow hallway.
My kitchen window after a few snow storms.
How I Stay Warm: Kotatsu
All houses and apartments in Japan don’t have central heating. So, I have 2 things I use to keep warm. The first is called a kotatsu and in incredibly snowy places, just about everyone has this in their house. A kotatsu is a table with a built in heater and a removable top to put on a blanket. The best way to use this is to sit on the floor and cover yourself with the blanket to about your hips. This is my favorite way to stay warm because I can do most things while being comfortable. Playing on my Nintendo Switch and taking naps are my favorite kotatsu activities. There are floor couches and chairs that are specifically designed for sitting under a kotatsu. I think a simple pillow works just as well (especially for naps). The kotatsu is dangerously cozy and it makes it hard to leave the house in winter.
This is what the kotatsu looks like. The top of the table comes off for the blanket.
How I Stay Warm: Kerosene Heater
The second thing I use to stay warm are kerosene heaters. This is the most common way to stay warm in winter because these can heat up rooms pretty quickly. I always buy my kerosene at gas stations which I love because I can fill both my car and kerosene cans at the same time. Kerosene heaters are convenient but can be bothersome because the room has to be ventilated to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. I always heat up my bedroom an hour or so before going to sleep so it’ll be nice and toasty.
The thing that’s really upsetting is the fact that my toilet is downstairs and my bedroom is upstairs. I’m always getting up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom. In winter, it’s the worst feeling to get up from my warm bed and venture down into what feels like the North Pole just for the toilet. I wish I could sleep with the kerosene heater on, but at least my toilet seat is heated. Some houses, like mine, come with a big heater that has a tube that runs outside so I don’t have to worry about being poisoned. I use this one in the living room and a smaller one upstairs.
This is the heater that blows carbon monoxide outside. I can leave it on for as long as I want without worries.
This is my smaller heater I use upstairs. For this heater, I actually have to ventilate the room every now and again.
Winter Wonderland
The snow can get pretty serious in Akita. However, Akita has some of the most beautiful snowy views and there’s a lot of winter festivals to enjoy too, such as the Kamakura Festival. Akita is also known for its ski resorts and ski slopes. I actually tried skiing for the first time in 2021.
I went with a friend who I thought was a pro at skiing, and she taught me the basics. It felt very strange to have these huge things attached to my feet and I fell down multiple times, but after a while I got used to it. Learning how to “pizza” was fun and I got the hang of it after about an hour. I think the hardest thing for me was trying to side step up a hill. I would always slide back down and fall over but I got a good laugh out of it every time. I didn’t take a lift to the top and ski down the mountain because I was way too scared, so I mostly just stayed at the bottom and practiced my form. There were smaller hills around that I tried skiing down, and I felt the adrenaline rush when I picked up speed and nailed the landing. Skiing was a lot of fun and I’d definitely do it again despite how sore I was the next morning!
Me attempting to ski for the first time at one of Akita’s many ski resorts.
Winter Scenery
Although I’d rather bundle up at home and never leave the house during winter, I’ve been forcing myself out of the house to actually enjoy some nice views. I’ve compiled my favorite views in the gallery below, so please enjoy my attempt at enjoying winter.
I actually passed this bridge many times before and decided to look up a time table for trains in this area. I found a good time for passing trains so I decided to drive here and wait. It was all worth it for this shot!
Here’s a little view of Yokote, my city. Snow covered rooftops and mountains way out in the distance.
Here’s me passing through some more snow hallways.
In my opinion, waterfalls are prettier when they’re surrounded by snow.
I came to this park with the intention of crossing this cool bridge, but my dreams were crushed when I found out it was buried in snow. At least the sunset was nice!
Taking a walk around Yokote Castle.
If you’d like to see more of my crazy Akita winters, check out my Instagram @shelby.abroad
I have videos and even more photos!